Saturday, 30 July 2011

Lacquer Sheen Level....Can I Change Between Coats?

Hello and Welcome to another WFR Blog Post.

Today's question isn't something that I get asked too often, but its a fairly straightforward answer so we'll go with the flow.

The question is "Can I Change the Sheen level of the Lacquer Between Coats ?"

Short answer is YES, but there are of course some proviso's.....In this instance our DIYer has applied 2 coats of Junckers Strong Gloss lacquer onto his Maple Strip flooring and has decided its too shiny.

What I have recommended he do is as follows.....The floor surface in the room will need to be 'Cut Back' which in layman's terms is a light abrading of the lacquer surface, with say a 120 or 150 grit level sanding screen or abrasive, this 'Keys' the surface of the lacquer in readiness to accept the following coats of seal. Then obviously vacuum the surface thoroughly and then tack cloth to remove any fine particles of dust and debris.

You are now ready to apply the next coat of lacquer, in our friends case he was going to use Junckers Strong Matt finish, You really must use products from the same manufacturer when you are applying a different sheen level, they are basically the same products with different levels of matting agents in them, so the chances of the intercoat adhesion failing is remote if the correct procedures are carried out.

Its also not a bad idea to use a new roller to apply the next coat of seal, either that or make sure that the roller or applicator you used to apply the previous coats has been properly washed out.

Hope that helps....Thanks for Reading.

Friday, 29 July 2011

How Clean does my floor need to be before applying floor lacquer

Hello and Welcome to another WFR Blog Post.

Today we'll touch on a general cleanliness question of when a floor has been sanded and properly prepared in readiness for the first coat of seal.

The question I've recently received from a DIYer who has sanded his own floor is "How clean does the floor need to be before I apply the lacquer ?"

Pretty straightforward answer this one, 'As clean as possible'.....the cleaner your floor the better overall it will look, its a very simple equation really, as a general rule of thumb on a standard parquet block floor of say 20m2 we would vacuum the floor probably 5 times over the course of the day.

With floor sanding you really can't vacuum enough, but on occasions no matter how carefully the floor has been hoovered there ALWAYS seems to be the odd bit of debris that is in the way just as you are starting to apply the first coat of seal.

Personally I advocate the use of 'Tack Clothing' the floor just after the final vacuuming has taken place, it never ceases to amaze how much dust and crud the tack clothing process picks up, for a 20m2 room I'd advise using 2 cloths, tack cloths are very cheap and the process is ridiculously easy to do and will take less than 5 minutes for a 20m2 wood floor, it will make a tangible difference.

If there are any Pro's who are reading this thinking 'yeah right'..... just try it once and see what a difference tack clothing makes......I was converted many many moons ago and now make sure we tack cloth EVERY floor we do.....Remember the cleaner the floor the better the finish will be....its that simple.

The proof is in the pudding....well the pudding in this case is the two pictures below, the first is our brand new tack cloth just before we used it on a 10m2 Mahogany Parquet Block Floor, the second picture is just after it had been used on the said 10m2 floor.....PS....The floor had been thoroughly vacuumed with a very powerful vacuum just prior to being tack clothed....Don't they say a picture speaks a thousand words.....I shall say no more....

The Tack Cloth Before Being Used

Tack Cloth after being used......

Thanks for Reading. 

Thursday, 28 July 2011

Bona - Floor Care 3 easy steps

Hello and Welcome to another Woodfloor-Renovations Blog Post.

 We are ALWAYS asked what's the best way to clean a wooden floor whether its just been sanded and refinished or is an existing wood floor.

If you click on the Bona Floor Care 3 Easy Steps link you will be instantly whisked away to the site where you can view an expertly presented video clip of the correct products you should use, but most importantly you are shown the correct methods and how to use Bona's excellent cleaning products.  
Bona - Floor Care 3 easy steps

Thanks For Reading

Wednesday, 27 July 2011

What Do I Apply To a Newly Sanded Floor ?

Hello and Welcome to another WFR Blog Post.

Today I'll talk about a question which was emailed to us from a Gentleman who perhaps should of done a little more homework before embarking on a Wood Floor Renovation project.

Todays question is "What Seal Do I Apply To a Newly Sanded Floor ? "

Alot of consumers get confused with the word Seal....there are many different types of seal on the Wood flooring market, such as an Oil Based Primer, Solvent Based Primer, Water Based Primer, I'll quickly comment on these three basic types of sealer so you get an idea of what they are about.

An Oil Based Sealer, such as say Junckers Proseal Primer is ideal if say you are on a project and you are looking to enhance the depth of colour into the material you are working with, for examples sake in this instance we'll say Oak Strip Flooring, the product [Junckers Proseal] is easy to apply and seals the grains of the timber, but it does have a long drying time, this product is nearly always best left overnight to go off properly.

Solvent Based Primers such as Junckers Baseprime [not too many of them on the market now]  are very quick drying and rapidly seal the grain of the timber, the primer will also enrich the natural colour of the material you are working with and also help to minimize grain raise in the wood. Being a solvent based product it will have a strong odour so make sure you have good ventilation available.

Water based primers/sealers are very popular these days, all the big manufacturers have them in their product line ups, they are all pretty similar to use, i've used many but certainly not all of them so I can only comment on the products i've used. Recently  I used a product from the Lecol stable the product is a water based primer and is called 'Lobadur WS Easyprime' it really is a nice product to use and ticked all the boxes for a professional with many good properties, I wrote a full appraisal of the product and its available for viewing on our website

So there you have it, pick a product that's right for your project and away you go.

Remember to properly read the manufacturers product instructions and if you are unsure then contact a professional.

Thanks For Reading.

Sunday, 24 July 2011

What Flooring Adhesive To use for my reclaimed parquet floor ?

Hello and Welcome to another WFR Blog Post.

Today's offering is something we get asked often, as it's something alot of people try and do themselves to save some money.

The question today is "What Flooring adhesive to use for my reclaimed parquet floor ? "

There are many very good flooring adhesives out there in the big wide world of wood flooring, but there are exactly NONE that claim to be able to fix back into place reclaimed parquet flooring that have bitumen on the back of them NONE.

Most non professional end users will have a different perception of what is a properly prepared sub-floor surface or parquet block in readiness for the blocks to be relaid, if the prep work isn't done properly then your project will almost certainly be doomed to failure, even if you do use adhesive from quality manufacturers.

That brings me nicely on to the adhesives that I would recommend, there are three, and I'm only mentioning 3 as I know these work if used correctly, I dare say there are many more products out there that work just as well, but I haven't used them so I can't say whether they are any good or not.

The three products I use regularly are Lecol 5500, Laybond L16, and last but no means least Sika 5500s. All these products I have found to work very well if the correct prep work has been done, click Here to see our full article on proper methods & correct prep work and tools.

When trying to effect block repairs you really do need to do your homework and find out the correct processes and products which will greatly minimise the likelihood of failure with your project, done properly with the correct products and 
know-how your project can have a professional finish and should last for many years.

Always always take time to read and understand the manufacturers product instructions in respect of how much product to apply to either the floor or the block, too much and it may be weeks before the adhesive dries properly, too little and the block likely won't adhere at all, make sure you use the correct sized notched trowel to apply the adhesive with as well.

Remember...which ever adhesive you use to fix your loose blocks you will get NO Guarantee  from any manufacturer, so if your project fails...Do Your Homework.

Hope this helps.....Thanks For Reading.

Tuesday, 19 July 2011

How Do I Get the Bitumen off The Back of My Parquet Blocks

Hello and Welcome to another WFR Blog Post

Today's post is something I come across alot, where people are trying to do something they are pretty much clueless about, but obviously want to save some money and still do as good a job as they can.

Linbide Tungsten Scraper....
The question today is "How Do I Get the Bitumen off the back of my Reclaimed Parquet Flooring ? "

If the bitumen on the back of your blocks is pretty dry then you may be in luck and the method that I recommend should do the trick for you. However.....if the Bitumen is still very tacky, almost still wet then I'm afraid that you have no easy solution, there are a few things you can do, but its a time consuming and very tedious process. Basically the best way to do it yourself would be to heat up the Bitumen on the back of the blocks with a heat gun / blow torch type of set up and scrape it off when its runny and almost liquid like....Not nice at all.

The other way and I feel for most people the best option, would be to send the blocks off to a company who specialize in the removal of bitumen from the back of parquet blocks. Checkout these guys may just be the answer to your prayers [or nightmares] and from around £12 per m2 [depending on the amount] will clean up your blocks nicely and have them ready for laying.

You need to weigh up this option against how long you think scraping maybe thousands of individual blocks will take you, bearing in mind that these guys can clean up maybe 50m2 in a few days.....its worth thinking about anyway. I'm not allied to in any way whatsoever, a client I did a Floor Sanding and Re-Finishing job for had used them for the bitumen removal process, that's how I know of them.

If the Bitumen on the back of your blocks is quite dry and you want to do the scraping yourself then here goes.....Your new best friend will need to be the splendid ''Linbide Tungsten Scraper" [image near top of page] its ideally suited for the scraping of bitumen from the backs of the parquet blocks, bear in mind that it's still a repetitive and tedious process but it does make a big difference to how the blocks sit and line up when you come to re-install them.

There is no automated easy way of doing this particular element of the job i'm afraid, its messy and creates bitumen dust, takes time but needs to be done, dont take more than 20-30 seconds per block, after you have done about a dozen of them you will get the hang of it and speed up. You don't have to scrape off every bit of bitumen residue, just the worst of it.

This process creates alot of dust and bitumen residue's so have plenty of ventilation available and vacuum up on a regular basis to keep the dust down....ALWAYS wear a DUST MASK ,GLOVES & GOGGLES.

Hold the block at one end with the other end butting against the floor, with the scraper laid flat against the bitumen surface push away and then back towards you until most of the residue is removed, then give the butt joints a quick scrape as well to remove any nibs or spots of bitumen.

Scraping the butt joints will help when you are re-laying the cleaned blocks in that they will butt up against each other much better and leave less gaps.

To do a good job I recommend you need / use the following items....

  • Linbide Scraper
  • Dust Mask
  • Goggles
  • Vinyl Gloves
  • Hammer
  • Chisels [old]
  • Wipes
  • Vacuum Cleaner
  • Dustpan & Brush 

Hope this helps......Thanks for reading.

I've already written a full article for Scraping Parquet Blocks and Re-Installing Them  check it out on our website by clicking the above link.

Sunday, 17 July 2011

I have seen a Refurbished floor at my friends house, Can you guarantee our floor will look like their floor ??

Hello and Welcome to another WFR Blog Post.

This post is a question I've been asked several times, there isn't a straightforward answer to it as there are so many variables to take into account when trying to reason out an answer....

The Question is "I have seen a Refurbished floor at my friends house, Can you guarantee our floor will look like their floor ??"

No we can't..... there are too many variables to take into account when comparing floors, For example Old Pine floors are still old floors, some may sand up beautifully and clean but others may not, your floor may be riddled with woodworm, your friends may not.

There may be shading around the edges caused by Bitumen, Sunlight, Leaks, carpet backing, spills and any number of different things that may have happened to the floor over the decades, cuts from stanley knives where carpet has been layed and cut are sometimes very deep and cannot be sanded out.

Saw cuts from plumbing work usually makes a complete mess of the wood floor, this can be fixed by replacing the boards, but remember, original floorboards may be well over 100 years old, this needs to be taken into account when drawing comparisons, also it may well be nigh on impossible to find replacement boards to match very old will need to bear this in mind....... 

We can make the best of the floor you have already have , but we cannot make them new again.

Thanks for Reading.

Floor Sanding......Before or After the room is Decorated

Hello and welcome to another WFR Blog Post.

Today's offering is a query many clients ask and can be quite important in the scheduling of all the trades involved in the overall renovation of a room or area.

The question is:-"Do I Get My Floor Sanded Before or After the Room is Decorated ?"

If you are hiring the standard low quality Floor Sanding equipment from a hire shop and doing the flooring renovation works yourself, then I would without question say do the Floor Sanding works first....then the decorating, I say this because most hire shop equipment has quite poor dust capture, meaning there will quite literally be 'Dust Everywhere'.

So for days afterwards you will be cleaning, dusting, vacuuming then cleaning dusting and vacuuming some more....You get the picture......

Whereas  professional standard Floor Sanding equipment used by any self respecting Floorsanding Professional has extremely good dust capture, usually around 95% + of any dust particulates created in the floor sanding process. So very small amounts of residual dust may be evident after the floors are Sanded, but these amounts are really minimal and won't damage/effect your newly decorated room in any way whatsoever.

In summary if you are doing the Floor Sanding works yourself with basic hire shop machinery then its a good idea to Sand first then decorate......However if you are employing a reputable professional company to undertake the works it doesn't really matter whether the works are done before or after the decorating is finished.

I myself have Sanded Floors the day after decorating works have been finished and it hasn't had the slightest impact on the overall project.

Thanks for reading.

Check out our latest Floor Sanding Gallery Pictures on our Website 

Saturday, 16 July 2011

Floor Lacquer Sheen level....Which one should I choose ?

Hello and Welcome to another WFR Blog Post.

Today's wise words are all about one of the fundamental choices clients need to make at the initial contractor site visit stage of the Wood Floor Sanding and Sealing process.

The question being "What lacquer sheen level should I choose ?"  

There really is no textbook answer here, every client has slightly different needs and their project is a little different to everyone else's project....Some people like a very flat Matt finish to their wood floors, some people like a satin or semi gloss finish, and a few people like a high gloss finish, bear in mind all the finishes will look great but its about choosing the look which will best suit the individual clients needs.

Semi Gloss or Satin [they are virtually both the same]  is the finish we apply most of, in percentage terms we will use approx 80% semi gloss, 10% matt or ultra matt and around 10% gloss on our projects, semi gloss is not too shiny nor too flat and is the ideal finish for many clients.

Ultra Matt is becoming increasingly popular, the sheen level of this product is around 9% so it is very matt in appearance and if you didn't know any better you would think it's an oiled finish...but you have the ease of maintainance of a lacquer and the aesthetic appearance of Oil, it's win-win for many clients these days.

Gloss finishes aren't for everyone here in the UK, but in the US gloss finishes are huge and most refinished wood floors will have a Gloss finish. Up until a couple of years ago I didn't really like Gloss, but I did a project where the client specified a high gloss finish and the finished article looked absolutely I changed my mind.

In summary I would advise doing your homework before you specify a lacquered finish with your contractor, ask to see some of your contractors finished projects via a portfolio or on their website, or ask them to do a small test area for you so you can see for yourself how a particular sheen level will work in your particular environment, don't be afraid to ask.....if they want your business chances are they will do it for you without any problem.

hope this helps......Thanks for reading.

We have multiple wood floor sanding galleries on our website with many different species of wood and lacquer finishes available for you to peruse.....check us out :-)

Friday, 15 July 2011

How Many Coats of Floor Lacquer

Hello and Welcome to another WFR Blog Post.

Today's diatribe is an aspect of Floor Sanding I'm not asked alot but is an important question for the DIY enthusiasts out there, and as we all know, Knowledge is power.....

The question is "How many coats of floor lacquer can I put on my wood floor in a day ?"

A fair question deserving of a proper answer.

Any self respecting professional flooring contractor/company will quote for and apply 3 coats of a good quality floor lacquer as standard, very often the three coats of lacquer can be applied in anything from 3-6 hrs depending on A. Site Conditions and B. The lacquer specification being used.

For example a High Traffic 2 component lacquer eg. Bona Traffic or Junckers HP Commercial will take longer to dry than a single component lacquer such as Junckers Strong or Bona Mega, typically between 2-3hrs per coat for a 2 component high traffic lacquer, and between 1-2 hrs per coat for the single component products in reasonable drying conditions.    

Site conditions play a big part in how many coats of floor lacquer can be applied in a day, for example if its a nice warm day outside and the room you are applying the lacquer to is at a nice ambient temperature then the lacquer should dry within the manufacturers stated time-frame [probably quicker] This is taking into account also that the lacquer has been applied properly at the correct coverage rate for the product.

The flip side is when the weather is cold and wet, both these elements will slow the lacquer drying times down, putting the central heating on will certainly help lacquer drying times, lacquer likes the warm, but doesn't like cold and damp conditions, so if its pouring down with rain outside, that can also have an impact on drying times inside, so many different elements determine how many coats of lacquer can be applied in a day. 

If you are a DIYer and are undertaking for example a 25m2 Lounge [270 sq ft] and have taken a day to properly prepare your wood floor, give yourself the next day to properly apply the lacquer and of course the primer as the first coat. If you want to apply an extra coat you simply have to give yourself more time...

Don't forget to allow the correct drying / curing times before moving furniture back into the area, ALWAYS read and carefully follow the manufacturers instructions.

We have more Floor Sanding Review Pages on our website  Here

Hope this helps....Thanks for reading

Wednesday, 13 July 2011

High Heel Damage and Wooden Floors....What Can I Do ?

Hello and Welcome to another WFR Blog Post.

Today's question is a contentious issue which happens every day to someone's Wooden Floor, follow a few of the following simple steps and it may not happen to you.... 

The question is..."High Heel damage to my wood floors, what can i do ??"

The quick answer is Not alot the damage caused by High Heels can be really bad, I myself have seen indents of well over 5mm into a hardwood floor, this kind of damage cannot easily be sorted out.

High heels concentrate a person’s weight on a small point (estimate: 125lb person = approximately 2,000lbs per inch when taking a normal step). This kind of force can damage many types of flooring, fracturing ceramic tiles and perforating vinyl, as well as denting wooden floors. While high heels in good repair may not damage wood floors, we recommend a ‘no high heel’ policy.

NEVER feel guilty about asking your friends to take off their high heels on entering your home, better that than having marks and indents all over your wood floor....

We have Sanded and Refinished numerous wooden floors of various species that have had high heel damage, very often the marks are removed during the floor sanding processes, but sometimes these marks CANNOT be removed with floor sanding as the indents are just too deep, these indents can be filled with a gap filling mixture, but its likely that you will still be able to see the indents, but to a much lesser degree, sometimes this is the best option.

  • As I mentioned earlier, if people are coming into your home with high heels on, politely ask them to take them off, A NO HIGH HEELS policy will keep your wood floors looking good for many years.....
  • If you wear high heels around your own home make sure the heel tips are in good repair, heels without tips are almost certain to cause damage.....
  • Damaged wooden floors are not easily repaired, consult a professional for advice if you are in any doubt.

Thanks for reading......We'll be back soon.

Checkout our website at Woodfloor-renovations

Tuesday, 12 July 2011

Floor Lacquers-How Long Do they Last ?

Hello and Welcome to another WFR Blog Post.

The question today is one which we get asked on virtually EVERY project we carry out...."How long will the lacquer last ??"

Its a fair and reasonable question and one you would expect an easy answer to, but there are many variables which need to go into the answer which determines how long the lacquers will last.

In a typical domestic situation where the wood floor lacquer has been correctly applied and is reasonably well looked that the correct cleaning/maintainance schedules are used on a regular basis, you can expect something between 3-5 years of good service before the area may need a light sand off and further coats of lacquer applying. 

You must also bear in mind the type of foot traffic going over the floor, in a busy household with young children and pets, the lacquer is not going to last as long as in a quieter household with say just two adults living in it..... other things to bear in mind the area a busy Hallway/Lounge ?  Do the family members take off their footwear on entering the property ? Do you remove small stones and grit from the floor surface regularly ? Do you use the correct cleaning and maintainance products on the floor ?

These things might not sound important but overall they can make a huge difference to the longevity of your floor lacquers, just using the proper cleaning products makes a massive difference, all the lacquer manufacturers have their own maintainance products that are designed especially for the lacquers, so my advice would be to do your homework and use the recommended products and follow the manufacturers maintainance schedules to get the best out of your flooring lacquers.

Thanks for reading.....

Friday, 8 July 2011

Junckers Ultra Matt Flooring Lacquer.....Before and After Pictures

Hello and Welcome to another WFR Blog post.

Today I'm going to do a 'Show & Tell' blog, that is to show you the pictures from a recently completed project, and to tell you how good the finished article looked.

The seal system we used on this project was 1 x Coat of Junckers base Prime followed by 2 x Coats of Junckers Pro Finish Ultra Matt.

We have used Junckers Pro Finish Ultra Matt lacquer quite a few times before, but for some reason the product looked just fantastic when it was applied to the Oak Strip floor we completed for one of our regular clients this week.

 Wendy [our client] was over the moon with the finished floor, it did look really good i must say, i know i may be slightly biased but come good do the pictures look....Whats that old saying......... 'A picture speaks a thousand words'

I shall say no more on this one....enjoy the pictures.....let me know what you think.

Tuesday, 5 July 2011

Saicos Hardwax Oil Sand and Seal Job

Hello and welcome again to another WFR Blog Post.

Today's offering isn't the usual Q&A type of Blog we've been doing of late, I thought a slight change of format is in order so I've put in 3 short video clips of a Sand and Refinish job we recently completed for one of our clients.

The floor in the videos is an Oak Strip Floor, 150mm wide x random lengths and 20mm in thickness.

The Dining room area was 21 m2 and the client supplied the Saicos Hardwax Oil for us to apply to the Oak Flooring so it would match other area's of her house. The 3 short clips are basically 'Before. During & After' so you can see for yourselves the transformation we effected....

Thanks for looking.....

Sunday, 3 July 2011

Can I Apply a Coloured Lacquer to a Hardwood Floor Without Sanding it ?

Hello and Welcome to another WFR Blog post.

Today's post is a question i don't hear too often, but without the correct knowledge and proper techniques it would be very easy indeed to make a complete hash of your floor.

The question is:- "Can I Apply Coloured Lacquer to a Hardwood Floor Without Sanding it ? "  

You will almost certainly need to lightly Sand the floor prior to applying the Coloured on as to why....

I know for a fact this topic has caught out many people who have tried to do just this, but have  had a very poor finish on their project, in fact I did a job for a lady last week who did exactly this and had a near disastrous finish.....Hence her phone call to us....

There are a number of things that anyone who is contemplating applying coloured lacquer needs to bear in mind before starting their project. Firstly and most importantly it needs to be determined whether or not the wood surface you are applying the coloured lacquer to is a Lacquered Finish.....or an Oiled Finish....

If you know the Finish on your floor is an oiled finish then its project over before it's begun, you cannot apply Coloured Lacquer on top of an Oiled Finished Floor, it will just reject and peel off, usually within a day or two, Lacquer and Oil are literally like Oil and Water, they DON'T mix......However if you happen to know that the finish on your project is Lacquer, then you should be ok......famous last words.

I would strongly recommend that you thoroughly clean your project floor before you start applying any lacquer using a good proprietary wood floor cleaning product, I would also advocate doing a small test area first, say a small board or two in a corner of your room so you can basically test whether or not the Coloured Lacquer will properly adhere to and cover your wood floor, this will also allow you to see how the coloured lacquer will look on a small area before you coat the entire floor.

If the test area is successful then its time to move onto doing the whole floor. Clean the surface with a proper wood floor cleaning product as I mentioned before and wait for that to dry. Now you need to lightly sand the whole area with say a 120 grit level sandpaper, this is so that the whole area has a good 'key' so the following coats of coloured lacquer will adhere properly.

After you have finished lightly sanding your floor then vacuum the area thoroughly, and also tack cloth the area as well so the floor is as clean as possible before you start applying any coloured lacquer.

Check to see if your Coloured lacquer product can be applied with a roller or a brush and use the correct application tools, read and correctly follow the manufacturers instructions. 

Hope that helps......Good Luck.

Saturday, 2 July 2011

How Do I Lay a Parquet Floor ??

Hello and Welcome to another WFR Blogpost.

This post will probably be a short one, but the subject matter is something I come across on a regular basis...

The question is "How Do I Lay a Parquet Floor ??"

 Believe it or not that's what I'm asked on a very regular basis, its akin to asking "how do I do a vasectomy myself ? ".....if you don't know how to, or haven't been professionally trained then my strong advice would be Don't Bother.....get a professional tradesman to lay the floor, and a professional company to Sand & Refinish for you as well.

The chances are after investing considerable amounts of money and time, the end result won't be anywhere near the quality of finish you expected.

Here's what a properly laid/sanded & refinished Parquet Floor looks like.....

That's it....Rant over....Thanks for Reading :-)

Floor Lacquer Sheen Levels....Whats the Difference ??

Hello and welcome to another WFR Blogpost.

Today I'll enlighten you on a question that confuses most of my clients who just don't understand the difference....

The direct question I was asked is:-"What's the difference between Bona Mega Matt & Bona Mega Silk Matt ?? "

The trade terminology for this is "Sheen Level" ie. the difference between Matt & Silk Matt products. What this basically means in how much light the product reflects when applied to your wooden floor, typically a Matt product will reflect around 20% of the sunlight that hits it, Silk Matt or Satin reflect between 40-60% depending on the manufacturer, and Gloss reflects about 80%.

Ultra Matt is a finish which is becoming more and more popular these days and just about all the top manufacturers have these products in their ranges, Ultra Matt Lacquers have a very low sheen level which by comparison to Matt/Silk Matt/Gloss, this would be around the 9% mark.

At the end of the day choosing which sheen level to go for is a subjective issue and needs to be made by the home-owner before the project starts, what I will say is around 80% of my clients choose Silk Matt/Semi Gloss [which are the same] most of them say they don't want the finish to be too shiny or too flat/dull, so they plump for the Silk Matt which ALWAYS looks good by the way....All the finishes look good but its all about personal preference....

If you are not sure, ask your contractor to sand off a small area of your floor for you prior to the project starting and apply a quick couple of coats of the lacquer, so you can see for yourself how the sheen level will look on your particular floor, a good contractor won't mind doing this for you as it doesn't take long to do......

Hope that helps.....Thanks for reading.